Trip to Argentina

09 Jan 2025

tl;dr Tips for Traveling to Argentina in November (Shoulder Season)

General Travel Tips

• Currency and Payment:
  Use a visa credit card without foreign transaction fees. The rate will match the unofficial exchange rate (see Blue Dollar), but cash often gets you up to 20% discounts. For safe cash exchanges in Buenos Aires, visit FAST CAMBIO - Currency Exchange in Recoleta.

• Reservations Are Key:
  For popular restaurants, tours, and activities, book ahead. High-demand spots (e.g., Michelin-star restaurants) get snapped up quickly—likely by other Americans doing the same thing.

• Airport Lounges:
  If using Priority Pass, pre-book lounges during layovers in Buenos Aires. They fill up fast, and otherwise, you’ll wait to get in.

• Learn Basic Spanish:
  While Buenos Aires is more English-friendly, much of the rest of the country is not. Knowing basic phrases makes the trip more enjoyable and helps you connect with locals.

Places to Visit

1. El Chaltén: A stunning mountain town in Patagonia and the starting point for incredible hikes, including to the iconic Mount Fitz Roy (the inspiration for the Patagonia logo).

2. El Calafate: A hub for visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier or driving to El Chaltén.

3. Mendoza: Argentina’s wine capital. Think of it as Sonoma, but with more steak and Malbec.

4. Buenos Aires: A beautiful, old-world city with European-inspired architecture. It’s worth visiting but keep your stay short (3 days max).

El Calafate

Overview

El Calafate itself is a small, quiet town, but it’s the gateway to the glacier and Patagonia adventures. Rent a car to make the most of your visit.

Where to Stay

• $$$ Posada Los Alamos: Cozy, lodge-like hotel with spacious rooms, included breakfast, a pool, sauna, and even a short golf course.
• $$$$ Explora en Torres del Paine: Luxurious and exclusive, though it books up fast. Seems nice if you can afford it, but I’d reccomend splurging in El Chaltén instead.

Restaurants

• Buenos Cruces Pasta Bar: Friendly staff, great pasta, small-town vibes. They learn your name when you enter. Book ahead for weekends or wait and eat late.
• La Cantina Piadineria & Beer House: Casual lunch spot with beer and empanadas. Great views of the water and mountains.
• Parrilla y Tenedor Libre Estilo Campo: Buffet-style restaurant serving authentic cordero al palo (Patagonian lamb). A local experience - no English spoken here so be prepared to order in Spanish!
• El Gaita Pizza Bar: Fine pizza but unexpectedly pricey.

Activities

1. Perito Moreno Glacier Hike: BOOK AHEAD with Hielo & Aventura (the only direct provider - others are just resellers). The Mini Trekking 2 tour is enough to enjoy this breathtaking glacier hike. They offer a longer tour called the Big Ice that we didn’t do. Afterward, visit the glacier’s viewing platforms and snack at the café. Drive early to enjoy scenic stops along the way.

2. Reserva Laguna Nimez: A peaceful bird sanctuary near town. Walk the guided paths, bring binoculars (or rent them there), and enjoy the natural scenery. Entry is ~$10.

3. Explore Lago Argentino: Drive north of town, stopping for photos, seeing the city sign, and to explore dirt roads along the water.

4. Glaciarium Patagonian Ice Museum: Surprisingly well-done museum on glaciers. A good pre-glaciervisit activity to get you excited for what you will see.

Drive from El Calafate to El Chaltén

• The drive takes way less time than Google Maps estimates because speed limits are flexible (locals often go 100+ km/h). Be cautious of guanacos (like you would for deer in the Northeast).
• Refuel before leaving El Calafate. El Chaltén has only one gas station, which gets crowded in mornings.

El Chaltén

Overview

A small, laid-back town surrounded by Patagonia’s majestic peaks. Many trailheads start here, so staying in town is ideal if you don’t have a car. Weather is unpredictable - layer up and be prepared for wind, rain, and sun all in one day.

Where to Stay

• \(\) Chaltén Camp: Glamping resort outside town nestled in a valley with beautiful views, incredible meals, and kind staff. The dirt-road drive to get there is picturesque and an adventure in itself.
• \(\)$ Explora en el Chaltén: A luxury lodge nestled in the national park. Expensive but reportedly worth it if you can afford it. They have some of the best trained guides in Argentina.

Restaurants

• La Cervecería Chaltén: Cozy spot for soup (Le Locro is amazing). We went back twice!
• The Asadores: Recommended by our Ice Trekking guide for traditional grilled meat.

Activities

1. Mt. Fitz Roy Through Hike:
   • Park at Sendero Laguna De Los Tres trailhead in town, then take a cab (coordinated by your hotel) into the park to hike back through the trail to your car. This hike is breathtaking and worth the effort. The through hike is also less crowded than the out-and-back so you can enjoy the isolation and quiet of the mountains.AllTrails Link.
2. Cerro Torre Viewpoint:
   • A lighter hike with gorgeous views. AllTrails Link.
3. Chorrillo del Salto:
   • A small waterfall a small way into the park. Skip the hike there and drive to save your legs for bigger trails.

Mendoza

Where to Stay

• In Town: Park Hyatt Mendoza—a well-priced, upscale option.
• South of Town (Luján de Cuyo): Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel & Spa. We stayed here and loved the vineyard views and spa, but staff coordination wasn’t great. Plan activities yourself.
• Way South (Valle de Uco): Didn’t visit, but heard this area is stunning for luxury stays and wineries.

Restaurants

1. Casa El Enemigo Vigil:
   • Book ahead. Michelin-starred restaurant with incredible food and endless wine pairings. A must-visit!
2. Clos de Chacras:
   • Perfect for lunch during a wine tour. Outdoor seating near a koi pond and vineyard. Food was great; wine was average.
3. Entre Cielos Restaurant:
   • Easy if you’re staying at the hotel with surprisingly good food. Get the steak.

Activities

1. Horseback Riding in the Andes:
   • We visited Quebrada del Cóndor. Gorgeous wildflowers, streams, and pristine mountain views make it unforgettable.
2. Catena Zapata Wine Tour:
   • Argentina’s most famous winery. Book far in advance. Their “Blending Games” tour lets you create your own Malbec blend. Stunning setting with the Andes in the background. More Info.
3. Entre Cielos Hammam and Spa:
   • Pamper yourself with a luxurious massage and hammam experience. Details Here.

Buenos Aires

Where to Stay

• Recoleta: Stayed at Hotel Club Francés. Quiet, elegant neighborhood with an Upper East Side Manhattan vibe. Great for exploring nearby attractions.
• Palermo: Trendy area with Soho Manhattan vibes. Best for restaurants, nightlife, and energy. We’d stay here next time!
• Puerto Madero: Modern and upscale but isolated from the rest of the city.
• Montserrat: Grungier and more eclectic, but not ideal for accommodations.

Restaurants

1. Aramburu: Book ahead. A 2-Michelin-star, 18-course tasting menu. Expensive for Argentina but cheap compared to the US. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Just book it!

2. Florería Atlántico: Rated on the top 100 bars in the world.A speakeasy under a flower shop. Excellent cocktails, world-class vibe. The drinks are so cheap that you are certified to leave buzzed.

3. Chori: Casual spot for delicious chorizo sandwiches in Palermo. Might be a little too toursity since it’s write up in the New York Times.

4. Rapanui: Buy fancy chocolates for gifts or for yourself!

Activities

• Tango Show at El Querandí: Dinner and tango performance. Great tango, questionable dinner, lots of wine. Read a review that said the tango brought them to tears!
• Recoleta Cemetery: Wander the elaborate tombs of the wealthy elite. Eva Perón is buried here. This is probably a place where a tour guide would make it more interesting. We tried to use ChatGPT once there, but it didn’t know a lot about the history.
• Cooking Class (Empanadas): Fun group activity to learn local cuisine and meet fellow travelers.
• Ecoparque Buenos Aires: Explore the abandoned zoo, now overrun by nature and turned into a public park. See some animals roam freely and interact. Other larger animals are still in their cages because they’re too big or old to move. It’s a nice way to spend a few hours.